Wine Advocate   The 2002 Brut Premier Cru brings together fruit from three of the region's best sites; Pinot Noir from Ay and Mareuil-sur-Ay (60%) and Chardonnay from Dizy (40%). It is a fabulously rich and expressive Champagne, with layers of fruit that flow effortlessly from its mid-weight yet generous frame. This shows wonderful complexity and nuance. It can be enjoyed or cellared for a decade. This is Lot L-OR02-09, disgorged: February 5, 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Antonio Galloni International Wine Cellar   ($59; 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay, disgorged February, 2010) Bright yellow. Pungent mineral- and herb-accented citrus and floral aromas. Then juicy and spicy on the palate, with noteworthy intensity to the flavors of underripe pineapple, lemon peel and honeysuckle. Finishes firm-edged and stony, with very good clarity and palate-dusting length. Josh Raynolds

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