The 2004 Taurasi Riserva Campore is the house’s top selection. I actually liked it the least among these sublime 2004s although admittedly that is a small point at this level. This is a big, massively concentrated Taurasi packed with dark fruit, menthol, spices and licorice. The Campore is aged exclusively in French oak which confers a dark set of balsamic aromas and flavors that complement the fruit nicely, but also seems to have dried out the wine a touch. Readers will want to give this imposing, concentrated Taurasi a few years in the cellar. Antonio Galloni