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Wine Spectator
Creamy and spicy-tasting, with concentrated apricot, melon and peach flavors. The long finish features spice, smoke and subtle white pepper notes that are joined by rich tropical nuances. Drink now through 2012.
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Wine Advocate
In its notes of toasted almond, blond tobacco, malt, honey, and buckwheat, Moosbrugger’s 2006 Gruner Veltliner Lamm suggests elements of both white Burgundy and Tokaji-Furmint. Rich and darkly-hued, with leathery and smoky pungency and alkaline minerality emerging in the finish, this is wine of symphonic proportions – minus the violin sections. A faint hint of heat is all that might stand between this Gruner Veltliner and true greatness or a decade’s worth of cellar enhancement, but I am betting that it will achieve both.
Michael Moosbrugger harvested relatively late, into mid-November, but the resulting richness was not marred by alcohol (even though the levels are frequently high), a circumstance he attributes precisely to having waited for really full flavor ripeness, and been able to pick largely botrytis free. With the exception of his back-to-the-future “Tradition” cuvees, Moosbrugger bottled his 2006 whites relatively early. One has the sense that Moosbrugger’s Tradition cuvees – picked with the intent of fermenting in a manner that prevailed a half century and more ago and given a year or more in cask – often need time to get themselves together after bottling (or perhaps even longer in cask?). “I won’t decide for ten years,” says Moosbrugger, when asked whether he intends to continue or expand his use of methode ancienne.
David Schildknecht
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International Wine Cellar
Pale green-yellow. Inviting, sweet tropical fruit aromas of pineapple and mango are laced with wild meadow herbs. Tightly woven and complex, displaying layers of opulent yellow fruits and minerals in a structured wine of great finesse. The vibrant fruit conveys an impression of almost sweet extract, but this wine is dry. Possesses plenty of potential for development in the bottle. Drink 2008 to 2018.
Peter Moser
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