The growing popularity of Bierzo can be partially attributed to savvy sommeliers who have celebrated Bierzo's food-friendliness at top restaurants. The grape at large in Bierzo is Mencia, generally light-bodied and with a fresh, red fruit juiciness that helps wash down any number of savory foods. The best bottlings are crafted with old-vines fruit grown on slate-riddled hillside vineyards as in this terrific buy from Dominio de Tares, a reference point for the appellation. This Bierzo combines flavors and aromas of crushed cherries, bramble, and herbs with a juicy, modestly structured finish that lends itself to rustic foods such as herb grilled lamb chops, bean soups, spit-roasted chicken, or oven-roasted meats and game.