It's hard to imagine how Merlot could fall out of fashion when you taste a wine as nuanced and delicious as this gem from our own backyard. We'll admit that there are still plenty of dicey Merlot-based wines to be had out there, but the North Fork's Bedell winery deserves applause for its successful efforts with this noble grape. It offers opulent aromas of sweet dark fruits bolstered by subtle notes of cocoa and vanilla, with round, palate-caressing tannins and tasty flavors of plum and berry. Sharing the same sophistication as similar bottlings from Pomerol and St. Emilion, this patriotic pour works just as well with bistro braises and fromage as it does with pan-cooked cheddar burgers.