Wine Advocate   From a more clay-rich sector than the rest of the schistic Cote de Py that is increasingly being thought of as its best portion, Desvignes’s 2009 Morgon Javernieres is not destined for bottling before the end of the year. Black fruits, smoky black tea, peat, game, and crushed stone inform a rather firmly though finely tannic; long and impressively-concentrated; but far from superficially sweet palate. There is promise of further complexity there, but I wonder whether such long elevage is best for a wine already rather dark and oxidative in personality (and I’ll refrain from reporting for now on a longer-fermented, special old vines lot similarly destined for bottling and almost inscrutably dense this past April). David Schildknecht

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