Robert Foley has told us that his first wine loves were bottles of full-flavored Charbono, likely crafted with grapes planted by California's earliest winegrowers. Fast-forward 30 years, and Foley's own Charbono is California's reference point for this obscure variety with Italian roots. Foley crafts his version in a chewy, quaffable-in-the-cantina style. Bright, black cherry fruit tumbles out of the glass and virtually demands sausage-spiked pizza and burgers. But don't be afraid to try this with more complex menus — diners at Danny Meyer's Union Square Café have enjoyed this is as a frequent by-the-glass selection alongside Chef Michael Romano's superlative cuisine.